When you bring marijuana clones into your garden, there’s a danger you’re bringing in pests or diseases along with the new cannabis acquisitions.
Spider mites, broad mites, thrips, aphids, powdery mildew and other pests and diseases can come in with the marijuana clones, and cause you big trouble.
I always look at marijuana clones with a magnifying glass before I procure them, but even if a clone appears perfectly healthy, it could have hidden problems such as powdery mildew.
Based on many bad experiences with marijuana clones, I now have one simple rule: When accepting a clone, assume it has mites and treat it accordingly.
What does this mean? In a word… Quarantine!
I try and grow as organically as possible, but when it comes to prevention and dealing with pests on marijuana clones, I choose a nuclear warhead: I dip new clones/cuttings into Avid.
While the precautionary warnings on this pesticide’s label look pretty heavy, there are two main factors that put to rest any fears I have about toxicity harming me or anyone else who gets near my marijuana plants.
First, I do not spray the product. Instead, I mix per label directions and use it as a dip only.
Second, my research uncovered the fact that Avid is used heavily in local agriculture on many berry and fruit bearing plants.
Unless I’m buying organic veggies and fruits, I’m already likely to be consuming large quantities of poisons like Avid.
That’s not a good thing, but at least I realize that Avid on my marijuana clones isn’t going to kill me or transfer into my buds.
Some growers choose to use more earth-friendly products such as Neem Oil, but Neem is really hard on the plants and does not always ensure a full kill.
The proper way to apply Avid to marijuana clones is to dip the clones as soon as they arrive and then again three days later, ensuring that all emerging eggs are also killed since mites have a life cycle of three days.
I do the dip-treatment on my marijuana clones and then place them inside a cloning dome and use duct tape to seal it shut.
This prevents pests from escaping and infecting your marijuana garden.
One problem with this technique is that no fresh air can get into the domed marijuana clone chamber.
I often put my quarantined marijuana clones in a climate-controlled environment far from my grow room.
I never use toxic materials when my marijuana plants are in flowering phase, that’s for sure.
The other big issue with marijuana clones is the dreaded powdery mildew.
Powdery mildew is invisible in spore form– your clone can look perfectly healthy and as soon as conditions are right, powered mildew can spread so fast it can literally destroy a garden in days.
I have had some really good results using Safer brand mildew treatment made up of natural oils like garlic and cinnamon.
During the winter months, any new marijuana clone is treated upon arrival and again while it is in the vegetative state.
Air movement is crucial for preventing powdery mildew. You want not just lots of air movement, but also air filtration, as much filtration as you can put on your intakes, and to filter internal marijuana grow room air.
Keeping your humidity low and temps between 70-74 during the dark cycle will severely hamper the ability of powdery mildew to spread.
With mildew, think “environment” before “treatment.”
If you have a dirty grow room with little or no air circulation, filtration, and control, along with humid conditions favorable to powdery mildew, no treatment will stop the spread of PM.
Sometimes infestations take drastic measures and I have taken down entire grow rooms, killed all the early flowering plants and fogged my rooms to prevent infestation.
Sometimes this can be the only solution since treating flowering plants is a big time no-no.
Young clones can always be dipped and you simply start fresh.
Giving up on a room full of infected or infested marijuana plants can sometimes be more sane than trying to nurse the marijuana plants.
You see some marijuana growers who spend months dealing with a grow op that’s infested with spider mites, instead of realizing that they have to dismantle the entire op, bomb it with pyrethrum or some other poison, get clean marijuana clones or start from marijuana seeds.
And it’s not because I create and sell marijuana seeds and marijuana strains that I say to you, if you really want to avoid bringing pests and diseases into your marijuana grow room, grow from seed.
Not only that, but if you really want to know what you’re growing, grow from marijuana seed rather than buy marijuana clones.
When you buy clones, especially from a medical marijuana dispensary, you never really know the lineage of those clones.
Many of them are mislabeled.
While it takes additional time and effort to grow from marijuana seeds rather than from marijuana clones, it’s far safer to grow marijuana from seed, select motherplants, and make your own marijuana clones, rather than risk importing bad things in with external clones.
The Theory of Infinite Dankage
Over 30 years of growing Cannabis I have noticed a few patterns emerging
I have noticed that plants like this that are literally done growing at harvest always taste better but more importantly are simply more dank! Healthy plants at the end are easier to trim and deff beefy but why is it a plant such as this that almost looks dead has such perfect reefer on it?
I saw a thread online the other day titled Hydro VS Organics. I did not reply as this argument is as old as Methuselah. We could debate this for eons It pretty obvious that the water boys out yield the mud boggers in the world but my days of Grams per watt are long gone. I run the same strains over and over and my goal each run is to make slight changes in my soil make up to determine when fading starts. To soon and the plant is green at finish and lacks flavor although I notice yields are better. To little and the fade starts so early that all the leaves fall off and yields suffer. The perfect blend will allow fading early in week 6-7 and continue to week 8 and beyond.
I have a theory you can laugh at. Its called infinite dankage, lets just say a plant has a determined amount of what we call dank. I dont think I need to define this. It seems to me that a faded plant will produce less total mass there fore creating more dank per gram on the plant? Does this make any since. Have you ever grew w plant that was just sickly as hell all yellow and faded, but have the bud from this plant taste better than normal? I am curious if others experience this.
The pictures are of the famous strain Apollo-13 taken at 60 days, the far end of her harvest window. This entire plant is head stash so I decided to make it as good as I know how.
I am smoking some scissor hash from trimming these upper nugs this am and I can tell you its as extreme as youd want. The first small hunk took my breath and pumped out 3 huge hits of almost perfume tasting hash. Its a bit like smoking channel #5 but there is also a fruity essence as well. A-13 make phenomenal Bubble is all I can say. It cannot be compared to anything I have ever smoked. As good as Vortex is, I prefer the bud smoke more than the mother, Momma still is the tops as far as resin is concerned it has a flavor and consistency like no other. Its shards up on scissors like clay or plumbers putty and has a deep red color.
Her downside is trimming. Imagine trimming this girl. I spend a good 4 hours on just the upper portion last night. The buds are covered in swirling curled sticky leaves that take loads of concentration and small scissors to clean up. I focus hard to remove all the sugar leaf as my main goal here is Bubble! I have noticed that actual sugar leaf makes the best hash. When I use pure bud I never get the same yields as with trim leaf. I think its almost a waste. So my buds get cleaned well to make more A-Bubble.